Here I'll likely mostly dwell upon knits and purls; and, probably on my recent Lupus diagnosis - I'm still adjusting to that.
You might witness a bit of boring average-life kind of stuff, mild contemplations of new ideas, wordy observations of nearby earthlings, and quite possibly evidence of genuine thought - I am not promising much.
Strong opinion, incendiary statements, profanity, and that kind of stuff are very unlikely to find space amid these syllabic accumulations.
This is my first pattern on a knitting machine. I've made a YouTube video below, as well as a pdf of my wrist warmer instructions.
I'm new to using my Addi King knitting machine, I'm hoping to purchase the smaller machine: the Addi Express Profession because I am enjoying this one so much. So far, I'm a happy knitting machine user.
This machine has been wonderful, as you can see, holding a set of needles is presently a challenge and the machine has allowed me to continue to create knits and maintain my feeling of productivity in my craft.
SKILL LEVEL: Intermediate - a variety of stitches and techniques are used, shaping and finishing, unique cast on variation.
NEEDLE SIZE: 4mm (US 6)
MATERIALS: 4-5 yards of worsted weight yarn, scrap lengths for embroidering face, and stuffing. (Example in pictures were made with scraps of Red Heart Super Saver: ball band details missing)
GAUGE: Not essential for this project. Blocking optional.
FINISHED DIMENSIONS: On 4mm needles: about 1 & 1/2 inches to 2 inches wide.
ABBREVIATIONS:
C/O - cast on; K - knit; K2tog - knit 2 together; LLI - left lift increase; M1P - make 1 purlwise; P - purl; RLI - right lift increase; RS - right side; Ssk - slip, slip, knit; Stst - stockinette stitch; S1L - slip one leftward; T - turn; W/E - weave end in; WS - wrong side;
and, special techniques:
CDd - centred double decrease, on the right side of work: with yarn back, slip two stitches together knit wise, knit one and pass the slipped stitches over;
PDd - purlside double decrease, on the wrong side of work: with yarn front, slip one as if to knit, slip the next as if to knit, slip both back to the left needle together knitwise, and purl 3 together.
Long tail cast on with tips, written: Cast on 5 stitches and turn work, slip two stitches together knit wise, knit one and pass the slipped stitches over, slip stitch just knit back to left hand needle; turn work and continue cast on with the next 8 and turn again for the next star point's centred double decrease.
(sts)x# - Stitch sets shown inside brackets followed by an x symbol and numeral indicate what is to be repeated and how many times.
PATTERN:
Worked bottom up.
Using long tail method, C/O 47 stitches like this:
C/O 5, T-CDd-S1L-T, (C/O 8, T-CDd-S1L-T)x7, C/O2. Leave end long for use in step 4.
1: P1, (CDd, s1, P2tog)x7, CDd, P1. = 24 Pinch and tweak shape of each limb, lengthen and straighten.
2: (PDd)x7. = 8
3: K
4: P. And, W/E up to active stitches, knot securely on WS, whip stitch across through every second purl bump and leave long. This will be used to draw bottom closed after stuffing.
5: K2, LLI, RLI, K4, LLI, RLI, K2. = 12
6: P6, M1P, P6. = 13
7-8: Stst
9: (K2tog,)x3, K1, (Ssk)x3. = 7
FINISHING:
- Cut yarn (leaving long enough for seam) and draw through remaining stitches, and
- before seaming back, embroider face: single stitch eyes made parallel/diagonal under the K2tog right of centre and under ssk left of centre; and the mouth goes across the centre increase made in step 6.
- Insert a minute amount of stuffing, draw step-4 strand tightly closed and secure end inside.
Test knit by my Walking Dead sibs on Ravelry, I bring you
zombie arms:
This is a cat toy, in which a toothpick may be inserted to be propped in a house plant.
Yarn: worsted weight zombie colour (green, or gray, or
mottled pink, etc)
Needle size: 3.25mm straight (US size 3), and a darning
needle for shoveling ooze.
Gauge is not essential, finished piece in worsted weight is approximately 3
inches long (8cm).
Optional: toothpick.
Post Apocalyptic skillz level: EASY - long-tail cast on, Cable
cast on, knit into front and back of stitch, pick up stitches, yarn front, yarn
back, slip stitch.
Abbreviations:
T - turn
P - purl
B/O - bind off
Kfb - knit front and back
S2L - slip 2 leftward
C/O - cast on (use Cable cast on or your preferred method)
K2tog - knit 2 together as one
S1L - slip 1 leftward
S3L - slip 3 leftward (makes up elbow in step 9)
YF - yarn forward
YB - yarn back
Pattern:
C/O 17 sts using long-tail method. T.
1: P. T.
2: B/O 4, Kfb, S3L. = 14
3: C/O 9 sts. = 23
4: B/O 7, K2tog, S2L. = 15
5: C/O 7 sts. = 22
6: B/O 7, K2tog, P3, K5, Kfb, K3. T. = 15
7: P 14, Kfb. T. = 16
8: C/O 7 sts. = 23
9: B/O 7, K2tog, P3, K7, YF-S3L-YB, K6. T. = 15
10: P 14, Kfb. T. = 16
11: C/O 5 sts. = 21
12: B/O 16, K2tog, S2L, B/O 4.
Knot ends together and seam arm closed. Tweak fingers for
length and curl.
TAGS: zombie dead undead amigurumi Halloween pet cat toy TWD where’s-carl
SKILL LEVEL: Intermediate - a variety of stitches and techniques are used, shaping and finishing, unique cast on variation.
NEEDLE SIZE: 4mm (US 6)
MATERIALS:
Scrap amounts (2-3 yards) of worsted weight yarn. (Example in pictures were made with scraps of Red Heart Super Saver: Purple - ball band details missing)
GAUGE:
Not essential for this project. Blocking optional.
FINISHED DIMENSIONS:
On 4mm needles: about 1 & 1/2 inches to 2 inches wide.
ABBREVIATIONS:
C/O - cast on; RS - right side; WS - wrong side; P - purl; S1L - slip one leftward; T - turn;
and, special techniques:
CDd - centred double decrease, on the right side of work: with yarn back, slip two stitches together knit wise, knit one and pass the slipped stitches over;
PDd - purlside double decrease, on the wrong side of work: with yarn front, slip one as if to knit, slip the next as if to knit, slip both back to the left needle together knitwise, and purl 3 together.
Long tail cast on with tips, written:
Cast on 5 stitches and turn work, slip two stitches together knit wise, knit one and pass the slipped stitches over, slip stitch just knit back to left hand needle; turn work and continue cast on with the next 8 and turn again for the next star point's centred double decrease.
(sts)x# - Stitch sets shown inside brackets followed by an x symbol and numeral indicate what is to be repeated and how many times.
PATTERN:
Worked from the outer edge to the centre.
Using long tail method C/O 29 stitches like this:
C/O 5, T-CDd-S1L-T, (C/O 8, T-CDd-S1L-T)x4, C/O2.
RS: P1, (CDd, s1, P2tog)x4, CDd, P1. = 15
WS: (PDd)x5. = 5
FINISHING:
Cut yarn and draw end through remaining stitches twice and weave ends in. Hold centre of star and tweak tips.
Needle size in millimetres is indicated on this sleeve with
bobbles and eyelets: whole numbers by bobbles and quarter numbers by eyelets;
the number of indicators required will determine the number of cast on stitches
(meaning the width of the work; and as such, the length of the sleeve). This
pattern is originally designed for four DPNs; a tighter seam or a row more (or
less) may better accommodate your needs.
Based on my available scrap yarn colours, I’ve colour coded
my needle sleeves to my needle sizes (My 3.0, 3.25, 3.5 &, 3.75 sleeves are
blue).
Requirements: Use whatever needle sizes the needle
sleeves are meant for; Darning needle; Scissors; Worsted weight in a small
amount (use a lighter weight for needles smaller than 3mm and hold yarn double
for needles larger than 6mm).
Gauge: is not essential for this pattern, though use
of DK weight may also accommodate your needs.
Abbreviations:
B/O - Bind Off.
C/O - Cast On.
K - Knit.
K/b - Knit below. Knit into stitch below which raises and
widens eyelet.
K2tog - Knit two together.
Kfbf - Knit front, back, front. Create three stitches from one.
P - Purl.
sl1 - Slip one.
sl3L - Slip three stitches leftward.
ssK - Slip, Slip, Knit.
W/E - Weave Ends.
YO - Yarn over.
3-Stitch Bobble:
worked from one stitch
1) Kfbf
2) sl3L, K3.
3) sl3L, K2tog, sl1, pass the knit stitch over.
Second RowEyelet:
YO, ssK.
Sixth RowEyelet: K2tog, YO.
4.50mm Needle Sleeve Instructions:
4.50mm will
require four bobbles and two eyelets; the eyelets in pairs need 3 stitches, the
bobbles in pairs will need 6 stitches, +2 for the left edge. C/O 11st.
1) P.
2) K2, Eyelet, K2, bobble, K2, bobble, K2.
3) P2, sl1, P2, sl1, P5.
4) K2, K/b, K8.
5) P.
6) K1, Eyelet, K2, bobble, K2,
bobble, K2.
7) P2, sl1, P2, sl1, P5.
8) K2, K/b, K8.
B/O, seam long edges together. W/E.
Notes:
- I used 2-strand (or 2-tail cast on). Use whatever works for you.
- To express a ½ mm the third stitch becomes the eyelets in row #2 and
row #6
- To express a ¾ mm the third & sixth stitches become eyelets in row
#2 and the sixth stitch becomes an eyelet in row #6.
- The eyelets are slanted opposite so they don’t render each other.
- The 3-Stitch Bobbles are the same throughout the pattern.
3.75mm Needle Sleeve Instructions:
3.75mm: three
bobbles and three eyelets; eyelets 6 stitches, bobbles 6 stitches, +2 for left
edge. C/O 14st.
SKILL LEVEL:
Intermediate - a variety of stitches and techniques are used, colour changes, shaping and finishing.
NEEDLE SIZE:
Use whichever size is used in the project this snout is intended to be attached to. I-cords can be worked on straight needles, but double pointed needles eliminate the need to transfer stitches leftward. (Example in pictures were worked on 4.5mm DPNs)
MATERIALS:
Scrap amounts of yarn in three colours in whatever weight used in the project to which this will be attached tooth-colour, face-colour, and nose-colour. (Example in pictures were made with scraps of Red Heart Super Saver: White, Beige, Pink - ball band details missing)
GAUGE:
Yarn weight and needle size to match project, gauge will be as set in project.
FINISHED DIMENSIONS:
On 4.5mm needles: 1 & 9/16ths inches wide x 1 & 1/2 inches top to bottom
ABBREVIATIONS: C/O - cast on; rnds - rounds; sts - stitches; (RS) - right side; K - knit; K2tog - knit two together; P - purl; YB - yarn back; S1 - slip one; YF - yarn front; LLI - left lift increase; RLI - right left increase; S2kp - Slip two together, knit one, pass slipped stitches over. (sts)x# - Stitch sets shown inside brackets followed by an x symbol and numeral indicate what is to be repeated and how many times.
KNITTING:
Worked bottom up, and finishes as a flat piece to be shaped with sewn in stitches using strands left long at colour changes.
C/O 3 in tooth-colour, leave long ends.
I-cord 2 rnds, leave on needle, snip and make second tooth
Position both teeth, front facing, on one needle - 6sts
Switch to face-colour to make cheeks, leaving a long ends:
(RS) K2, K2tog, K2. - 5sts
P2, YB, S1, YF, P2.
(K1, LLI)x2, YF, S1, YB, (RLI, K1)x2. - 9sts
P4, YB, S1, YF, P4.
(K2, LLI)x2, YF, S1, YB, (RLI, K2)x2. - 13sts
P
K6, YF, S1, YB, K6.
P6, YB, S1, YF, P6.
K2tog, (S2kp)x3, SSk. - 5sts
P2, YB, S1, YF, P2.
Switch to nose-colour, leaving long ends:
K1, S2kp, K1 - 3sts
I-cord 4 rows, snip end and draw through remaining stitches.
SHAPING:
Fold nose in half and sew top edge of nose to the bottom edge of nose behind work (knot strands together, do not trim yet).
Baste-stitch down center of cheeks using face strand closest to nose, pull to gather and knot behind with a nose strand, these two strands may now be trimmed, leave one long nose strand for attaching to face.
The uppermost tooth-strands can each be woven in so as to draw the tooth tops firmly closed behind, trim after making a small knot.
You now have four long strands left.
ATTACHING:
Weave in ends as you go. Begin by holding appliqué centred in position on face.
Secure each tooth with a small neat stitch at corners using the tooth-strand.
Secure edges of cheeks using face-strand making sure to keep nose centred. Tuck a small pinch of stuffing into first cheek as it is done and second cheek just before last stitches are placed.
Secure nose using nose strand.
TAIL SIZED TO MATCH:
Of all the pompom instructional videos on YouTube I like Bernat Yarns: "How To: Make A Pompom with a Fork" and I share it with you here with a few minor modifications.
I draped the 12" centre tie-strand through the center prior to beginning to wrap (loosely secured in a bow on the handle so I was able to undo it effortlessly).
I made my pompom the same worsted weight beige as the face-colour above.
70 wraps, rather than 50.
I knotted the centre strand more than once, first while on the fork, then I slipped the wraps to the fork tip threaded strand to opposite side and knotted again. I positioned the tie-strands through to the original side before sliding wraps off; after sliding off and before snipping loops, I knotted a third time - even tighter. (Probably overkill, but I wanted to ensure that it didn't come apart in tufts because my pompom was meant for a child's toy.)
My Bunny Snout design was inspired by a test knit I did for a fellow Ravelry member. She will be publishing her pattern in a magazine coming out in November this year (until then: no finished project pictures can be posted). If you are on Ravelry, check out gabrielle009 and her designs: Gabrielle Vézina